I spent a long time searching for the perfect hollandaise sauce recipe – and I was frustrated for ages. I never knew how much cold butter the egg yolks could take. Sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn’t. Don’t get me wrong, I love thickening sauces with ice-cold butter, but with hollandaise it’s a different story, apparently. With this recipe, I’ve achieved a personal breakthrough. Not too much butter, but always enough, and it doesn’t curdle. And it stays thick even in the sauce boat on the table.

Hollandaise sauce is one of the great classic French sauces – and also marks the start of my new sauce series here on vivikocht.ch. The clarified butter ensures a stable emulsion and a velvety texture that holds its shape. I promise.

How I make hollandaise sauce – step by step

The white wine reduction: Finely chop two shallots and place them in a small saucepan along with the bay leaf, the sprig of tarragon, the three sprigs of parsley, 2 tbsp white wine vinegar, 1/8 l white wine and 5 peppercorns. Reduce by two-thirds over a medium heat – what remains is a concentrated, aromatic base. Strain through a fine sieve and leave to cool completely.

Whisking the egg yolks: Take the three egg yolks out of the fridge in good time – they need to be at room temperature. Place them in a heatproof bowl together with the cooled reduction and whisk over a hot water bath (not boiling, approx. 65 °C) until creamy and light. The mixture should visibly increase in volume and have a pale, fluffy consistency.

Incorporate the clarified butter: Gently warm the 180 ml of clarified butter – it should be liquid but not hot. Now pour it into the egg yolk mixture, first drop by drop, then in a thin stream, whilst continuing to whisk. This takes about three to four minutes. Patience pays off: this creates a stable emulsion with a lovely texture.

Season to taste: Season the finished sauce with salt and a dash of lemon juice. The consistency should be velvety and firm – it should run off the spoon but retain its shape. Serve immediately.

Done – Hollandaise sauce over asparagus This sauce goes perfectly with white asparagus, but also with fish, poached eggs or green vegetables. If you prefer a lighter version, you’ll find Mousseline sauce – the lighter sister of Hollandaise – in episode 2 of my sauce series.

Clarified butter

Here’s how to do it (500 g butter):

1. Melt the butter slowly over a medium heat – do not stir.
2. It starts to bubble and foam – that’s normal; the water is evaporating.
3. Carefully skim off the white foam from the top.
4. Wait until the liquid turns a clear golden colour – spoon test: if you can see through it, it’s ready.
5. Strain through a fine sieve lined with cheesecloth.

500 g of butter yields approximately 400 g of clarified butter.

Tips & variations

For an even smoother sauce, pass the reduction through a fine sieve twice. If you prefer a slightly tangier flavour, you can increase the amount of lemon juice slightly. As a variation, you can easily turn the finished hollandaise into a sauce mousseline by adding a dash of whipped cream. Hollandaise isn’t just for asparagus: it’s also a wonderful accompaniment to poached salmon, sea bass or steamed broccoli.

Storage

• Serving temperature: Sauce hollandaise should be served immediately – it is a fresh emulsion sauce and is not suitable for making in advance.
• Fridge: Not recommended. The emulsion separates when cooled. If it is kept in the fridge and then reheated, it usually curdles.
• Freezer: Not suitable. The emulsion is not freezer-stable and cannot be salvaged once thawed.

FAQ on Hollandaise sauce

Why does hollandaise sauce curdle?

It’s usually down to the temperature: butter that’s too hot, too cold, or incorporated too quickly. This can be almost entirely avoided by using clarified butter at room temperature and a gentle bain-marie.

Can I salvage a curdled hollandaise sauce?

Yes, sometimes. Crack a fresh egg yolk into a clean bowl and gradually stir in the thickened sauce, a drop at a time. But this only works if the sauce wasn’t too hot to begin with.

What is the difference between hollandaise sauce and mousseline sauce?

Mousseline sauce is a hollandaise sauce to which whipped cream is folded in just before serving. This makes it lighter, airier and less rich – perfect if you’re serving the sauce in large quantities.